Yesterday, Wednesday, we visited Deception Island. The horseshoe of hills is a classic caldera of a still-active volcano. At some point a massive eruption has left the 500m high ring around a basin, flooded because of a break in the rim to the south east. The basin is about seven … Continue reading
Today we went ashore. Yankee Bay is large, shallow stretch of water protected by a shingle spit of glacial moraine with a narrow entrance. Few boats come here. The spit is beloved of fur seals and is host to a rookery of gentoo penguins. Skuas swoop and strut, looking for … Continue reading
I have spent almost all the 30 hours since my last post in bed. Hats off to all those who have managed to stand their watches. I have (so far) resisted sickness but the lassitude and incompetence have been a bit much in 50 knots of wind and 5m seas. … Continue reading
We were extremely lucky that the weather held off long enough this morning for us to land on Cape Horn. It was both exhilarating and moving, especially the beautiful monument to mariners from all over the world. While we waited for the boat to take the pilots home the wind … Continue reading
Sometime back, I asked people for suggestions for my iPod. I have to say many of you were very reticent in public, though thanks to all those who sent me suggestions by email or private message. I have constructed a list on Spotify, unsurprisingly called Sailing to Antarctica. It’s not … Continue reading
I cannot lie: I’m keen on lists.For the first time in nearly three years I am heading off for a long period. I’m not packing up and moving house first, which is a relief. But I will be completely out of touch in a way which gently cruising in one’s … Continue reading
I have just downloaded the US Sailing Directions to Antarctica, a weighty tome full of dark warnings. The British would call it the Pilot Book, the detailed description of the coastline and sailing conditions of the area. (The Admiralty Pilot is not available electronically and costs at least £60.) In addition to … Continue reading
Maximum fitness for the trip isn’t just about all that gym time. I’ve also been getting myself thoroughly checked over by various medics. Quite apart from generalised worry this involved two big terrors. Would there be enough cash for everything and, most of all, could I face the dentist? First the … Continue reading
Ellen MacArthur smashed the records for sailing single-handed round the world in 2005. She was 29 and she took the 23m trimaran B&Q round in just 71 days. She did not have a safety boat trailing along to pick her up, or helicopters on stand-by, though I’ve heard people mutter … Continue reading
Garlanded with honours and academic recognition, French paleo-geologist Claude Lorius still says towards the end of this film that he wonders whether his life will make a difference. He wanders elegiacally through rocks only half covered in ice and stands in the rising tide on some distant atoll, emphasising the ice … Continue reading
