From Puerto Williams

We came in to this tiny town on Isla Navarino this morning and had a fine walk in the woods. Moss and mistletoe clamber over the beech-like trees, the mud underneath is deep and clean and the sun shone mightily. It was not very Antarctican but beautiful. A bit like … Continue reading

Day 2

Day 2 is calm but very wet We left Punta Arenas about 2200 on Sunday night. It was both exciting and subdued because a lot of us were quite tired by then. It had been a really warm day but by about 1800 it was getting cool and of course … Continue reading

Southern light and free dogs: Punta Arenas

Punta Arenas reminds me of small towns in New Zealand. It has the neat rectangularity of Invercargill and the bright colours of Napier. The town shares the light with Bluff, on the south point of South Island. Even clouded and raining, the air is that particular southern oceanic grey, brighter … Continue reading

Placemaking in Antarctica

There are stations and bases scattered across Antarctica, spread very thin and mostly around the edges. These are places, with form and function: . I’m avoiding the word settlement because the Treaty doesn’t allow permanent settlement (which is a good thing).     The term placemaking gets bandied around in my … Continue reading

Buenos Aires

The sun rose over Uruguay and Argentina as we descended into Buenos Aires. Now they are cleaning up the plane: those of us getting back on for the last leg to Santiago have to take all out hand luggage into the air-conditioned, chain-stored, echoing corridors of transit-purgatory. I have quite … Continue reading