Making places in Antarctica: history, science, and territories

I’ve commented before that so many human-made places in the far South are ugly buildings sitting in magnificent landscapes. We called at Esperanza station in Hope Bay, on the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula: it’s a busy research base and a stamp of Argentina’s territorial claims, a scatter of red corrugated … Continue reading

Birthday time

Any birthday on Europa is celebrated. We’ve had fewer than you might expect this voyage but each one has been marked. At sea, bunting decorates the long corridor and deckhouse, and alongside lights are strung across the main deck. After dinner, the musicians of the crew arrive. Two violinists and … Continue reading

Phew – it’s hot here

Here in the corner of the cruise terminal, surrounded by concrete, it is very hot on deck. We are eating lunch having finally completed the formalities; shorts, sun hats and jandals are finally dug out from the bags and lockers where they have languished for weeks. As we are here … Continue reading

#AntarcticAlphabet: H is for home

Home is where the heart is, where we hope and plan, even dream. Not-home, elsewhere, is transition, a coming or a going, a place whose future is not our business. Almost every building we’ve seen since Puerto Williams has been ugly, bases and settlements of corrugated metal, old machinery and … Continue reading