Fur sealers were first. Cook sent back reports of the millions of seals to be found in South Georgia and immediately they came. When Larson began industrial whaling he named his base Grytviken, Pot Cove, for the old cauldrons littering the beach, remnants of the seals melted for blubber. Mostly, … Continue reading
Anyone who thinks square riggers don’t sail upwind should have seen us as Europa, heeling to some 25 degrees, took the bit in her teeth and attacked the north-westerly wind yesterday afternoon. Gradually we brought in sails, gradually she heeled over, slowly the wind built, and the faster we all … Continue reading
Today I have put on my shoes for the first time since we left Punta Arenas five weeks ago. Until now, I have worn only the famous boots or (below decks) socks-with-nobbles that are warm and comfy, prevent slipping, but are not waterproof. This morning is a brief interlude of … Continue reading
