South Georgia Heritage Trust: habitat and ambition

Before disembarking at Grytviken, the Director of the South Georgia Heritage Trust came on board to talk about the challenges and successes of habitat restoration on the island. They’ve got a seriously impressive record. I’ve mentioned the reindeer, but of course they’re fairly big and slow-moving. Once the decision had … Continue reading

Bird Sound: arrival and biosecurity

The archipelago of South Georgia includes the study site of Bird Island, lying just off the north-western tip of the main island. Between them lies a rocky, narrow channel known as Bird sound. The detailed chart shows that the deeper water (the white bits) reduces to a narrow channel between … Continue reading

Cape Horn: the landing

It’s about 90 nautical miles from Puerto Williams to Cape Horn; my little chartlet is not necessarily our exact route but gives you a good idea. We left in a glorious sunset across the Strait, with Laurits, one of the crew, replacing the baggy winkles on the mizzen boom topping … Continue reading

South Georgia on my mind

This is our third full day in South Georgia and we are having an astonishing cruise. I have over 30 pages of notes about the behaviour and appearance of penguins, seals, petrels, gulls, skuas of different kind and colouration. It is hard to know where to begin. We anchored last … Continue reading

Buenos Aires

The sun rose over Uruguay and Argentina as we descended into Buenos Aires. Now they are cleaning up the plane: those of us getting back on for the last leg to Santiago have to take all out hand luggage into the air-conditioned, chain-stored, echoing corridors of transit-purgatory. I have quite … Continue reading